Fish for tea

What could go wrong was the windlass seizing up, unfortunately for a
piece of equipment mounted on the bow it doesn't much like salt water,
so the various bits stick together. A short period of circling the
Sound of Shuna with a minor bit of maintenance and it was working
again. We anchored to the East of Knap point and shortly afterwards
listened to the steady downpour that must have continued all night.
Morning saw the sun shining and a brisk NW'ly set in, so it was up
anchor and off through the buoyed channel to the South East of the
Island. This is marked by little sticks with flags that mark a
tortuous channel through the banks and out into Loch Linnhe. Then a
gentle turn towards the channel at the North end of Lismore to pass
Port Appin and enter the Lynn of Lorn.
We hugged the coast all the way down Lismore with just genoa out and
cracked along at 7 knots till the south end where turned in towards
Oban and a passage through the bay. The crew was also getting
restless about the lack of fish, despite slowing down the sail up to
Shuna with a couple of hundred hooks hanging off the back end. On the
way down the Sound of Kerrera I hauled in the genoa to pocket
handkerchief size and we proceeded at about 1 – 2 knots, the mackerel
obliged and we had 6 in as many minutes.
On then, still in the glorious sunshine to Seil and my default
anchorage at Puilladobhrain. No one here but us and the seagulls.
This afternoon the creel is to be deployed so it may be mackerel for
tea tonight and lobster tomorrow, we'll have to wait and see.

And we're off again

David Gillespie and myself as crew. Fabulous weather in Oban yesterday, warm sunshine with narry a cloud to be seen. Oyster's lightly grilled with garlic and parmesan followed by my own mushroom risotto for dinner, we aren't depriving ourselves.
Day opens overcast with mist, forecast is for light southerly followed by a F6 NW tonight, Loch Shuna at the North end of Lismore looks a sheltered spot and all the way with a following wind, what could go wrong?

Shore Leave
Oysters were off the menu due to them being "tested".  What is the capital of India the square root of 169 etc.  But we had a bowl of mussels and langoustines which were delightful, washed down with some local Oban Bay brew.  Thank you to Hamish & Sheena for their generosity.
Home in Glasgow for a bit of leave before returning this weekend.  Staggering around a bit with my now acquired sea legs.

We were ashore last night at the Mishnish in Tobermoray. Nice pub,
horrible toilets. A row back to the boat and dinner on board watching
the sun set behind the town, with the prospect of a run back to Oban
with a fair wind and tide on the morrow.
During the night the dinghy blew over and nearly went AWOL with the
fresh SE wind and rain, the skipper was out at 4:30 tying it down.
The 8:00 departure became necessary for the skipper's hangover and the
tide. The NW wind hadn't arrived and there was a SE on the nose about
15 knots to contend with, so the engine was on and we and motored into the
wind and rain. (See attached photo of happy crew)
After two hours we pulled into Loch Aline for a break and some peace
and quiet, unfortunately there was a lumberjack convention in town and
the sound of ripping chainsaws somewhat broke the peace. We set off
just as the tide turned against us, but the wind had gone right round
to the NW so we were on a run. All went well until approaching the
channel at the south end of Lismore. We had about 15 to 20 knots of
wind behind us but I think up to 5 knots of tide against. It was all
a bit scary with sideways movements towards the rocks but we
persevered and got through but in the future a place to be avoided
with a contrary tide.
Back alongside and maybe the prospect of a raw oyster for tea.

Fresh new crew

The new recruits joined last night, coincidental with the rain
starting, some could take this as an omen but... Day opens with heavy
rain and overcast skies, not to be outdone we set off for Oban on the
10:00 ferry to do all the hot spots. Return to vessel on the 11:00
ferry, but what is this, the skies are clearing and it is now only a
light drizzle. All hands on deck, let go ford let go aft, full
astern, full ahead unplug the electrical lead.
We set off with optimism and the wind on the beam. Just past Lismore
the wind dies then moves round to the direction of the destination.
Harden sheets and we set off to windward up the Sound of Mull.
Lots more wind and a reef in the main and lots of genoa wound in but
we are still clocking up 7 knots through the water. Great sail,
albeit mostly to windward up to Tobermoray and we get one of the last
mooring buoys. Photo of crew relaxing with sun downers, note the blue
sky in the background.
Crew blog: S states that there is a hair dryer in the showers at
Oban. Gin mixed with tonic makes her happy. Hamish has found a tea
towel and is also ecstatic.

A fond farewell

Today see's the departure of the crew. The sound of splitting rocks
here in Oban this morning and the picture here shows John pointing out
to John that the big orange thing in the sky is called the sun, rarely
seen in these parts on two consecutive days. The yoga goes on apace
and here we have Lynne and John demonstrating a special west coast
pose, the ach aye the noo.
So it's farewell to them and thank you for all the help and the whisky.

What a difference a day makes.

Day starts with sunshine and a yoga session in the cockpit, prior to
bacon butties. We set off looking at a poor unfortunate who had
anchored too close to the shore and with the wind shift overnight was
lying over at a perilous angle, a few hours tide will sort him out.
Going aground can happen to the best of people.
Back out into the Sound of Mull where we ran up to Loch Aline with the
SE wind yesterday which has now become a NW'ly 5 so a little bit of
genoa and we're off. Duart Castle flashes by and the south end of
Kerrera beckons within the hour. Up the Sound and we are tied up in
the marina at Oban for lunch. Wall to wall sunshine and a pitying
glance at those heading up the Sound hard pressed against the wind.
For those interested in Ardinmar Bay the outer starboard beacon has
become two right next to each other, the inner starboard one is
missing and there is a new port hand inner. A comprehensive survey
with me in the rubber dinghy shows that the outer reef extends way out
from the markers. When transiting keep well to the south or port hand
side, there is water up to 5 metres off the port hand mark, the
starboard hand mark needs a good 10 to 12 metres clearance.

Precipitation

Bumpy night but the anchor held and we woke to overcast skies and rain
with intermittent drizzle. The departure from hells spawn bay proved
to be less exciting than the arrival, skipper didn't actually take a
breath until the sounder was showing more than 3 metres though.
A motor down Loch Shuna and then a sharp turn to starboard and we set
sail with wind and tide to traverse the Sound of Luing. 2 to 4 knots
of tide all the way till we were out in the open water and then a
downwind sail with a steady drizzle, now with intermittent rain. All
the way till we pulled into Loch Aline when the rain had ceased and we
were able to have a Pimms on deck.

Up and down

The day started well, sunshine with a good forecast for the hours to
come. Just after clearing the Yacht Haven entrance we set sail down
Loch Craignish with a Hallsberg Rassey in pursuit. Knot training was
provided for the crew on the way. Good to say that it was just on
turning into the Dorus Mor that the Hallsberg drew up with us, though
of course we just had the genoa out whereas he was under full sail. A
great run up to Loch Melfort past the marina at Craobh and then a turn
to port towards Ardinamir bay at the south end of Torsa.
The book says that there is a very narrow entrance channel between a
drying rock and an extensive rock ledge and shoal. To be approached
with caution. We needn't go into details here, but at one point when
entering the bay the motion of the vessel indicated that there was
insufficient under keel clearance. The vessel was put astern and then
re-entered the channel and followed the advice of a fellow yachtsmen
shouting out commands with gestures. The passage to anchor then
proceeded without incident.
Crew then demanded liberty and set off for the shore, muttering about
taking the Cal Mac route back to Oban.
Day ended calm and quiet, skipper slightly subdued.

Beer and Mollusks
A stiff walk to the head of loch with Lynne leading, inevitably lead us back to the Galley of Lorne pub where we indulged in a couple of pints of real ale and a large bowl of local mussels in wine and garlic sauce.  Well the meat eaters amongst us did, the veggie had to be feast on the view.
Day ends very peacefully, that is if you ignore the sound of snoring purring from the fore and after cabins.

Southward bound.

Day starts with sunshine and a very gentle breeze from the West.
Based on the forecast of NWl'y winds we set off for the Sound of
Luing. It was one of those days that all yachtsmen know when there
was just enough wind to keep you going but the sloppy seas made the
sails flap around and the boom snatches back onto its sheet. There is
of course a fine line when sailing, between not enough wind and wooo
too much. Just after passing the lighthouse at the North end of the
Sound we had a reef in the main and the genoa wound right in. None
the less the boat was flying along at 8 knots through the water and
about 7 over the ground, strangely the tides hadn't read the tables
and we didn't appear to have them in our favour. On south to the
Dorus Mor and a sharp port hand turn up Loch Craignish to arrive in
Ardfern where we are tied up for the night. The crew demand the
comforts of showers, aromatherapy massages, draught lager etc.

Fresh Blood

A night spent at anchor on my own, strange noises overnight which were
never tracked down. Up anchor and head north to Oban to pick up the
new volunteer crew, Lynne & John as pictured.
Tesco for shopping and a walk to the boat in the rain which
conveniently stopped just after we had arrived back on board.
The Hebridian Princess is in port over on the North side Pier, her
Majesty is on board I believe.
We set off through the North entrance and did a brisk upwind passage
down the west coast of Kerrera to anchor again at the favourite spot
here at the North end of Seil. Weather stayed dry and some crew say
wonderful with slate grey dreaminess.
Up at the crack tomorrow to catch a favourable tide to head south, if
the forecast is correct and we have a NW following breeze that is.

In Service Day

No crew on board today and swinging around on the hook or anchor. A
quiet night with not a breath of wind this morning and a cloudless sky
with clear views over to Mull out west. I have been pretty motivated
and cleaned off the black streaks down the hull and scrubbed the wood
in the cockpit, then when the weather deteriorated I cleaned the cabin
out in preparation for the new crew joining tomorrow.
It's a quiet life out here, not even got the radio for company as the
reception is so poor it just leads to frustration constantly re tuning
to catch the next part of the programme. But as you can see there is
a tenuous Internet link, but I'm not expecting to view any Youtubes or
play a game on line.
I haven't spent this much time on my own for years, don't think I
would cope with Kirsty's Desert Island very well.

Great day with fair winds and tides. We had a very quiet night in
Loch Aline, a good secure anchorage with shelter from any direction. The
wind was from the NW which suited us fine for the passage across to
Oban, and the tide with us all the way too; it's great when a plan
comes together.
New crew this weekend, it's lovely to have Julie on board. The Ocean Youth Trust
yacht was in the Loch with us overnight and set off about the same time, big
boat but we seemed to be able to pass her without much trouble. The
passenger ship was anchored off Oban when we arrived at the North
entrance, busy town with a Tall ship in at the North Pier as well.
Onward through the Bay and back to what is becoming the default
anchorage at Seil Island. Julie has headed back to Glasgow and I'm
here looking out at the glorious sunshine and the extraordinary light that you get here.
Some more observations on the Blue Ensign, my bête noir, it is my observation that the downwind,
downtide yachts with motor on and not a sail in sight are generally
flying the blue flag. And another thing, it appears essential to have a
loud laugh when crewing on a blue flag vessel, as is evidenced by the
yacht two boat lengths away from me tonight. The research continues.

Day opens overcast with rain and a breezy Southerly. We had about
twelve other yachts sharing the anchorage with us at Puilladobhrain
last night, two nationalities we hadn't seen before are the Danish and
New Zealand boats pictured. Bit of a contrast in the comfort levels
between the two.
We set off under main alone and despite the adverse tide made brisk
passage towards the Sound of Mull past the Island of Bach. We turned
the corner at Duart Castle then the wind died and we found ourselves
heading east at about a knot with the tide. While there the castle
were firing off cannons, fortunately only flashes and sounds of
thunder no signs of splashes in the adjacent water.
The wind picked up again and we were on to Loch Aline and through the
narrow entrance that opens out into this spectacular and sheltered
loch. There is a sand mine to port as you come in with apparently 30
miles of underground caves. On up to the top of the loch and anchored
in 6 metres, only the sound of burn in spate and the wind in the
trees. Why would you want to sail and live anywhere else?
Forecast is positively optimistic for tomorrow, lets hope its right.

On my own for the day as Lynne has headed back to the city to return
next week. The good news is that Julie is driving up from Glasgow to
join me tonight, so I won't be solo for long. I sailed down to
Puilladorbhrian watching many other yachts heading into Oban ready for
the big dinner tonight, I believe in the boat shed at the marina.
As in previous days I noticed many of the yachts motoring in. I don't
understand why so many yachts seem reluctant to sail, if that is what
you are going to do most of the time then why not bite the bullet and
buy a motor boat. Particularly surprising has been the number of
yachts we have seen recently motoring down wind, with the tide, maybe
doing about the same speed if they could be bothered to pull out the
genoa. And another thing, blue ensigns, what's that all about? Is it
that they are too posh to be seen flying the red duster? Seems to be
more than ever around here, I'm starting to get into the minority,
maybe someone in authority needs to do a warrant check.
The picture was taken a few moments ago, looking north through the
drizzle towards Oban. WInd is howling in the rigging and it hasn't
stopped raining since I dropped the hook. Who'd want to sail in this
part of the world?

This was what is was supposed to be like

Up at the crack to catch a fair tide back down the Sound of Mull, dry
and the wind still from the NW so we motored up to and went through
the North entrance to Tobermoray. I bottled out going through the
South end entrance, maybe when I've seen it dried out.

The wind stayed from the NW all the way so we gybed our way down the
Mull zig zagging so that we could keep both sails full. This boat
doesn't really like going downwind, which is a bit tragic. Then
miracles, the sun broke out and we passed the South of Lismore in
glorious warm weather with a following wind all the way into Oban,
where we picked up a mooring over on the mainland side.

After a walk of many many miles we returned to the boat to a meal of
veggies and a glass of wine to watch the sun fall behind the mountains
of Mull. Why would you want to live or sail anywhere else?

Onward west.

Day opens overcast with "Irish" rain, steady heavy drizzle. We moved
over to the yacht club pontoon on the mainland to fill up with water,
strangely despite the vast amounts of water that has fallen on this
part of the world recently the marina still doesn't have sufficient
water on the Island to allow them to connect up the hoses on the
pontoons. We then set off via the North entrance to the Bay and set
full sail for the South of Lismore in a brisk southerly. Few if any
other yachts in company.

Approaching the Sound of Mull we watched the porpoises swim past as we
wallowed in the calm that had overcome us, at one point we started to
move back towards Oban with the tide. Then the wind got up from the
North West, so we hardened sheets and sailed all the way to Tobermoray
hard to windward all the way, at least the tide was with us. Oh did I
mention that the rain came with the wind, nearly all the way, I'm sure
the views are stunning.

8 hours after setting off from Oban we arrived in Tobermoray, but
there was no room at the moorings or the anchorage so we anchored
right down at the south end at Doirlinn, on our own. Which it has
been for most of the day as we didn't see any other mugs beating to
windward all the way here. Day ends partly cloudy but without the
precipitation. Only sheep and the sound of the wind here to disturb
us. The lights of the flesh pots in town are on the horizon there to
tempt us but the mile and a bit row is too much to countenance.

July weather moving into August

Joined today late afternoon with new and keen crew member Lynne. Have
to leave here tomorrow to make room for the Clyde Cruising Club
members doing there celebration cruise of the West Coast. Not too
sure where to go but will decide in the morning when we see where the
wind is blowing from. Presently Southerly F4 with rain showers and
choppy seas under the stern. Wind whistling in the rigging.

Crew Required.
I find myself short handed next week.  Anyone who is free and fancies taking on the West Coast of Scotland from next Tuesday 27th July for a few days from Oban please get in touch.  No pay, poor prospects and little chance of promotion.  Young and fit applicants will be readily accepted.