Circular Tour

Two friends for a long time, Roy and John joined on Thursday afternoon.  For the start of our cruise was a peaceful sail up the East Kyle to the Kames Hotel with a good dinner ashore, the moon rising over Bute with the sun setting over the mainland was a memorable sight that evening.
Friday opened with wall to wall sunshine and the sea like a mirror.  We motored down the Kyle towards Ardlamont Point and then picked up the forecast NW breeze for a brisk sail over to Lochranza on Arran, where, with some difficulty, we managed to pick up a buoy.  Bouncing around in the ever freshening wind I stayed on board to keep an eye on things while the lads went ashore to visit the local distillery.
Onwards, still in sunshine and now with a wind gusting up to 27 knots we set off up Loch Fyne for Tarbert.  Good experience for Roy who is new to sailing to find out why the wind direction has a lot of bearing on the progress.  We were in time to visit Mr. Prentice and his seafood emporium out at the ferry terminal and dinner was in the cockpit, langoustines and scallops accompanied by a fine bottle of Moet, we weren’t scrimping.
Overnight there was tremendous showers of rain, which continued for the day.  The wind was still breezy from the NW but now behind us, all the way to Kempock Point with just the genoa giving us a respectable 6 to 8 knots right up to the marina.  Largs Regatta is on this weekend with some damage apparent on poor soul sailing up Loch Fyne with a ripped head sail.

A great three days, thanks to John & Roy for their company, and the bottles of Rhum and Whisky.  Lochranaza whisky is excellent and I recommend it to those of you who like a tipple.

Home
Our final sail to Largs was all on starboard tack, down the East Kyle making a good 7 to 8 knots all the way overtaking the odd motoring yacht, blue ensign resplendent at their stern.  Once clear of Rothesay the wind stayed at a steady F5 rather than the gusty breeze in the Kyle and before we knew it we were tied up in the marina, back in the familiar berth.  Since David joined last Sunday we have clocked up 140', 120' or so under sail.  It has been a gourmet cruise, oysters, fresh mackerel and langoustines.  Thanks to David for his culinary skills and for his companionship.

Homeward bound

We departed Tarbert after lunch and had a great sail down Loch Fyne
and round Ardlamont Point to the Kames Hotel. The weather was fine and
I think that in some respects the wind force was greater in Tarbert
than out in the loch. We nipped ashore and walked round to the
Tighnabruaich boat yard to view David's previous boat now resplendent
in its new green and white colour scheme. Had fish and chips in the
hotel, then found ourselves sheltering under the dinghy on the beach
as the rain came down.
Just the return trip to Largs today and that will be the end of this
particular voyage, the good news is that I'm back here on Thursday
with a bunch of guys for two nights, maybe back in Tarbert again soon.

Of prawns and gales

Day opens with torrential rain, not feeling 100% probably due to a bad
packet of crisps that I had in the Cairnbaan Hotel last night. We set
off droochit and tie up in Ardrishaig harbour working out what to do
next. The forecast says F5 to 7 South Westerly but here in the pool
it is 0 gusting 1, admittedly there is more wind out in Loch Fyne but
it doesn't seem to be that much. No boats coming in though.
We do some shopping in the local hypermarket and then the sun breaks
through so the skipper decides that we can sail at 2 for Kames, with a
view of having chips for tea in the Kames Hotel. A mile or so down
the loch and one gust registers 38 knots, no more sail and motor on
for Tarbert.
Safely alongside a pontoon listening to the wind whistling and moaning
in the rigging. David introduces me to the fish producer at the
harbour entrance, the results are as in the photo. Lovely, washed
down with a fine bottle of Tempranillo rose and some crusty bread.
First visit here for this year and there has been some changes around
about the place. The big old boat shed has gone and a walkway has
been built all around the harbour, lots of new shops with art
galleries and coffee shops. Things are looking prosperous here.

Canals and fair winds.

The inshore forecast was now predicting up to a gale force 8 on Friday
from the SE going round to the SW on Saturday so I felt that going
South was no longer an option, our second attempt to get to Port Ellen
has been thwarted by the old enemy the weather.
We motored back down Loch Sween, in comparison to yesterday it seemed
a much more unfriendly place with the low cloud and the head wind. As
we approached the corner and turned to starboard towards Crinan the
sun broke through, we let out the genoa and raced North with the sun,
wind and tide all in our favour.
Straight into the canal and straight through to the first set of locks
where we met Brian our pilot for the transit. It may cost a few
pounds but the ease of going through with lines tended and locks
opened and closed as you berth is well worth it. We were in company
with another yacht so it was all the much easier for their help as
well. By 5 were berthed on the downside of the bridge at Cairnbaan.

Incidents and mysteries

While at anchor there was a need to transport between ship and shore,
to get provisions, ballast for the creel, visit the pub etc. To save
embarrassment the names have been removed from the narrative but a
crew member while attempting to board the tender managed to end up
going for a swim in Puilladobhrain anchorage. All very unfortunate
but the main loss was of the dignity of the crew member, as one other
yachtie commented it can happen to the best of us.
We walked over the hill and had a couple of pints at the Tigh na
Truish and then mackerel for tea done in the oven to avoid the boat
smelling like a chippy. The heads guts etc. were all placed in the
creel, see photo, and placed in a rocky spot to tempt the local
lobster overnight.
The haul in the morning revealed half a dozen crabs, wee tiddlers and
a mysteriously empty bait pouch. Overnight something had managed to
unzip the pouch at the top of the creel and empty the contents,
possibly an octopus? Any suggestions? The dinghy in the photo left
just shortly before us, interesting rig does anyone recognise it?
We set off under motor and once clear of Easdale at the South end of
Seil sailed all the way down the Sound of Luing past Corryvreckhan and
Crinan to Loch Sween, the wind was SW so once in the loch which runs
SE to NW we had a gentle run all the way up past the Castle and
anchored in the Fairy Isles at 19:00, with only the sound of the wind
and the odd owl to break the peace. The landscape reminds David of BC
in Canada, many little islands with fir trees and a backdrop of
mountains.
Thursday morning now and the forecast is going downhill fast, gales
forecast for tomorrow and not much better on Saturday. It was our
intention to go on to Port Ellen on Islay before going round the Mull
but time and weather may defeat us as David needs to be home for
Sunday night. Crew meeting over breakfast to look at the options.

Fish for tea

What could go wrong was the windlass seizing up, unfortunately for a
piece of equipment mounted on the bow it doesn't much like salt water,
so the various bits stick together. A short period of circling the
Sound of Shuna with a minor bit of maintenance and it was working
again. We anchored to the East of Knap point and shortly afterwards
listened to the steady downpour that must have continued all night.
Morning saw the sun shining and a brisk NW'ly set in, so it was up
anchor and off through the buoyed channel to the South East of the
Island. This is marked by little sticks with flags that mark a
tortuous channel through the banks and out into Loch Linnhe. Then a
gentle turn towards the channel at the North end of Lismore to pass
Port Appin and enter the Lynn of Lorn.
We hugged the coast all the way down Lismore with just genoa out and
cracked along at 7 knots till the south end where turned in towards
Oban and a passage through the bay. The crew was also getting
restless about the lack of fish, despite slowing down the sail up to
Shuna with a couple of hundred hooks hanging off the back end. On the
way down the Sound of Kerrera I hauled in the genoa to pocket
handkerchief size and we proceeded at about 1 – 2 knots, the mackerel
obliged and we had 6 in as many minutes.
On then, still in the glorious sunshine to Seil and my default
anchorage at Puilladobhrain. No one here but us and the seagulls.
This afternoon the creel is to be deployed so it may be mackerel for
tea tonight and lobster tomorrow, we'll have to wait and see.

And we're off again

David Gillespie and myself as crew. Fabulous weather in Oban yesterday, warm sunshine with narry a cloud to be seen. Oyster's lightly grilled with garlic and parmesan followed by my own mushroom risotto for dinner, we aren't depriving ourselves.
Day opens overcast with mist, forecast is for light southerly followed by a F6 NW tonight, Loch Shuna at the North end of Lismore looks a sheltered spot and all the way with a following wind, what could go wrong?

Shore Leave
Oysters were off the menu due to them being "tested".  What is the capital of India the square root of 169 etc.  But we had a bowl of mussels and langoustines which were delightful, washed down with some local Oban Bay brew.  Thank you to Hamish & Sheena for their generosity.
Home in Glasgow for a bit of leave before returning this weekend.  Staggering around a bit with my now acquired sea legs.

We were ashore last night at the Mishnish in Tobermoray. Nice pub,
horrible toilets. A row back to the boat and dinner on board watching
the sun set behind the town, with the prospect of a run back to Oban
with a fair wind and tide on the morrow.
During the night the dinghy blew over and nearly went AWOL with the
fresh SE wind and rain, the skipper was out at 4:30 tying it down.
The 8:00 departure became necessary for the skipper's hangover and the
tide. The NW wind hadn't arrived and there was a SE on the nose about
15 knots to contend with, so the engine was on and we and motored into the
wind and rain. (See attached photo of happy crew)
After two hours we pulled into Loch Aline for a break and some peace
and quiet, unfortunately there was a lumberjack convention in town and
the sound of ripping chainsaws somewhat broke the peace. We set off
just as the tide turned against us, but the wind had gone right round
to the NW so we were on a run. All went well until approaching the
channel at the south end of Lismore. We had about 15 to 20 knots of
wind behind us but I think up to 5 knots of tide against. It was all
a bit scary with sideways movements towards the rocks but we
persevered and got through but in the future a place to be avoided
with a contrary tide.
Back alongside and maybe the prospect of a raw oyster for tea.

Fresh new crew

The new recruits joined last night, coincidental with the rain
starting, some could take this as an omen but... Day opens with heavy
rain and overcast skies, not to be outdone we set off for Oban on the
10:00 ferry to do all the hot spots. Return to vessel on the 11:00
ferry, but what is this, the skies are clearing and it is now only a
light drizzle. All hands on deck, let go ford let go aft, full
astern, full ahead unplug the electrical lead.
We set off with optimism and the wind on the beam. Just past Lismore
the wind dies then moves round to the direction of the destination.
Harden sheets and we set off to windward up the Sound of Mull.
Lots more wind and a reef in the main and lots of genoa wound in but
we are still clocking up 7 knots through the water. Great sail,
albeit mostly to windward up to Tobermoray and we get one of the last
mooring buoys. Photo of crew relaxing with sun downers, note the blue
sky in the background.
Crew blog: S states that there is a hair dryer in the showers at
Oban. Gin mixed with tonic makes her happy. Hamish has found a tea
towel and is also ecstatic.

A fond farewell

Today see's the departure of the crew. The sound of splitting rocks
here in Oban this morning and the picture here shows John pointing out
to John that the big orange thing in the sky is called the sun, rarely
seen in these parts on two consecutive days. The yoga goes on apace
and here we have Lynne and John demonstrating a special west coast
pose, the ach aye the noo.
So it's farewell to them and thank you for all the help and the whisky.

What a difference a day makes.

Day starts with sunshine and a yoga session in the cockpit, prior to
bacon butties. We set off looking at a poor unfortunate who had
anchored too close to the shore and with the wind shift overnight was
lying over at a perilous angle, a few hours tide will sort him out.
Going aground can happen to the best of people.
Back out into the Sound of Mull where we ran up to Loch Aline with the
SE wind yesterday which has now become a NW'ly 5 so a little bit of
genoa and we're off. Duart Castle flashes by and the south end of
Kerrera beckons within the hour. Up the Sound and we are tied up in
the marina at Oban for lunch. Wall to wall sunshine and a pitying
glance at those heading up the Sound hard pressed against the wind.
For those interested in Ardinmar Bay the outer starboard beacon has
become two right next to each other, the inner starboard one is
missing and there is a new port hand inner. A comprehensive survey
with me in the rubber dinghy shows that the outer reef extends way out
from the markers. When transiting keep well to the south or port hand
side, there is water up to 5 metres off the port hand mark, the
starboard hand mark needs a good 10 to 12 metres clearance.

Precipitation

Bumpy night but the anchor held and we woke to overcast skies and rain
with intermittent drizzle. The departure from hells spawn bay proved
to be less exciting than the arrival, skipper didn't actually take a
breath until the sounder was showing more than 3 metres though.
A motor down Loch Shuna and then a sharp turn to starboard and we set
sail with wind and tide to traverse the Sound of Luing. 2 to 4 knots
of tide all the way till we were out in the open water and then a
downwind sail with a steady drizzle, now with intermittent rain. All
the way till we pulled into Loch Aline when the rain had ceased and we
were able to have a Pimms on deck.

Up and down

The day started well, sunshine with a good forecast for the hours to
come. Just after clearing the Yacht Haven entrance we set sail down
Loch Craignish with a Hallsberg Rassey in pursuit. Knot training was
provided for the crew on the way. Good to say that it was just on
turning into the Dorus Mor that the Hallsberg drew up with us, though
of course we just had the genoa out whereas he was under full sail. A
great run up to Loch Melfort past the marina at Craobh and then a turn
to port towards Ardinamir bay at the south end of Torsa.
The book says that there is a very narrow entrance channel between a
drying rock and an extensive rock ledge and shoal. To be approached
with caution. We needn't go into details here, but at one point when
entering the bay the motion of the vessel indicated that there was
insufficient under keel clearance. The vessel was put astern and then
re-entered the channel and followed the advice of a fellow yachtsmen
shouting out commands with gestures. The passage to anchor then
proceeded without incident.
Crew then demanded liberty and set off for the shore, muttering about
taking the Cal Mac route back to Oban.
Day ended calm and quiet, skipper slightly subdued.

Beer and Mollusks
A stiff walk to the head of loch with Lynne leading, inevitably lead us back to the Galley of Lorne pub where we indulged in a couple of pints of real ale and a large bowl of local mussels in wine and garlic sauce.  Well the meat eaters amongst us did, the veggie had to be feast on the view.
Day ends very peacefully, that is if you ignore the sound of snoring purring from the fore and after cabins.

Southward bound.

Day starts with sunshine and a very gentle breeze from the West.
Based on the forecast of NWl'y winds we set off for the Sound of
Luing. It was one of those days that all yachtsmen know when there
was just enough wind to keep you going but the sloppy seas made the
sails flap around and the boom snatches back onto its sheet. There is
of course a fine line when sailing, between not enough wind and wooo
too much. Just after passing the lighthouse at the North end of the
Sound we had a reef in the main and the genoa wound right in. None
the less the boat was flying along at 8 knots through the water and
about 7 over the ground, strangely the tides hadn't read the tables
and we didn't appear to have them in our favour. On south to the
Dorus Mor and a sharp port hand turn up Loch Craignish to arrive in
Ardfern where we are tied up for the night. The crew demand the
comforts of showers, aromatherapy massages, draught lager etc.

Fresh Blood

A night spent at anchor on my own, strange noises overnight which were
never tracked down. Up anchor and head north to Oban to pick up the
new volunteer crew, Lynne & John as pictured.
Tesco for shopping and a walk to the boat in the rain which
conveniently stopped just after we had arrived back on board.
The Hebridian Princess is in port over on the North side Pier, her
Majesty is on board I believe.
We set off through the North entrance and did a brisk upwind passage
down the west coast of Kerrera to anchor again at the favourite spot
here at the North end of Seil. Weather stayed dry and some crew say
wonderful with slate grey dreaminess.
Up at the crack tomorrow to catch a favourable tide to head south, if
the forecast is correct and we have a NW following breeze that is.

In Service Day

No crew on board today and swinging around on the hook or anchor. A
quiet night with not a breath of wind this morning and a cloudless sky
with clear views over to Mull out west. I have been pretty motivated
and cleaned off the black streaks down the hull and scrubbed the wood
in the cockpit, then when the weather deteriorated I cleaned the cabin
out in preparation for the new crew joining tomorrow.
It's a quiet life out here, not even got the radio for company as the
reception is so poor it just leads to frustration constantly re tuning
to catch the next part of the programme. But as you can see there is
a tenuous Internet link, but I'm not expecting to view any Youtubes or
play a game on line.
I haven't spent this much time on my own for years, don't think I
would cope with Kirsty's Desert Island very well.

Great day with fair winds and tides. We had a very quiet night in
Loch Aline, a good secure anchorage with shelter from any direction. The
wind was from the NW which suited us fine for the passage across to
Oban, and the tide with us all the way too; it's great when a plan
comes together.
New crew this weekend, it's lovely to have Julie on board. The Ocean Youth Trust
yacht was in the Loch with us overnight and set off about the same time, big
boat but we seemed to be able to pass her without much trouble. The
passenger ship was anchored off Oban when we arrived at the North
entrance, busy town with a Tall ship in at the North Pier as well.
Onward through the Bay and back to what is becoming the default
anchorage at Seil Island. Julie has headed back to Glasgow and I'm
here looking out at the glorious sunshine and the extraordinary light that you get here.
Some more observations on the Blue Ensign, my bête noir, it is my observation that the downwind,
downtide yachts with motor on and not a sail in sight are generally
flying the blue flag. And another thing, it appears essential to have a
loud laugh when crewing on a blue flag vessel, as is evidenced by the
yacht two boat lengths away from me tonight. The research continues.